Used Jaguar XJS for sale in Europe

About the Jaguar XJS

The Jaguar XJS is a large two-door grand tourer that was built from 1975 to 1996. It replaced the E-Type at the top of Jaguar's range. Its character is relaxed long-distance comfort rather than sharp handling, with a long bonnet, a low roofline and a 2+2 cabin.

Early cars use the 5.3 litre V12. A 3.6 litre straight-six joined the range in 1983 and grew to 4.0 litres in 1991. The V12 was enlarged to 6.0 litres in 1993. Most cars have an automatic gearbox, and some earlier and six-cylinder cars have a manual.

The XJS suits buyers who want a classic-era GT and accept age-related upkeep. Body styles include the coupé, a cabriolet with a fixed roll hoop and removable roof panels, and a full convertible from 1988. Condition and history vary widely between cars.

Generations

• Series 1 (1975-1981) — The original XJS launched with the 5.3 litre V12 and was offered with manual or automatic transmission.
• HE (1981-1991) — The V12 gained the revised High Efficiency cylinder head, the 3.6 litre six arrived in 1983, and a full convertible followed in 1988.
• Facelift (1991-1996) — The 1991 update brought the 4.0 litre six, revised rear bodywork and, from 1993, the 6.0 litre V12.

Typical prices

Asking prices in our listings rise broadly with model year. Cars from the late 1970s and early 1980s sit lower and spread widely, while cars from about 1989 onwards cluster higher. Across all listings the median is €23,000, with the middle half of cars between €16,000 and €34,000. For 1995 cars the median is €30,000. Within any single year the gap between cheaper and dearer cars is large, so body style, engine, condition and service history matter as much as age. These are asking prices in our listings on 2026-11-10, not a valuation.

Based on our listings as of 2026-11-10. These are asking prices, not a valuation.

What to check when buying a used Jaguar XJS

Look at the car in daylight, ideally on a lift, and ask for the full service file. On a car of this age the history and the condition of the structure matter more than the odometer reading.

• Corrosion in the structure

  Check the sills, floors, boot floor, wheel arches, door bottoms and the areas around the windscreen and rear window. Look underneath for old repairs and fresh underseal covering problems. Rust repairs can be extensive, so inspect these areas carefully.

• Cooling and oil leaks · V12 engines

  Look for signs of overheating, a weeping radiator or hoses, and oil leaks around the engine and gearbox. Run the car to temperature and watch the gauge. Ask what cooling and ignition work has been done and when.

• Coolant loss and servicing · 3.6 and 4.0 six-cylinder engines

  Check for coolant loss, oil leaks and rough running from cold. Look in the service file for cooling-system work and regular oil changes. Listen for unusual noises at idle and under load on a test drive.

• Electrics and air conditioning

  Test every switch, window, central locking, gauge and warning light. Age-related wiring and poor earth connections can cause intermittent faults. Check that the air conditioning blows cold, as repairs can be involved.

• Rear suspension and brakes

  The rear discs and suspension sit in a subframe, so access is awkward. Listen for clunks or vibration under load, check for uneven braking, and look for worn bushes. Ask whether the rear assembly has been overhauled.

• Roof and water leaks · Cabriolet and convertible

  Operate the hood or roof panels and check the fit, seals and fabric. Look for damp carpets and rust around the screen frame and floors. A convertible that has been left outside can hide water damage.

Frequently asked questions